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The DMZ |
We arrived early at Exit 9 of Myeongdong Station in Seoul, eager to board the bus for our day trip to the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone), the tense border that separates North and South Korea. The excitement was palpable—standing at the 38th Parallel, a line that once seemed distant and unreachable, was about to become a reality.
Arrival in Seoul: A Warm Welcome
Our journey to Seoul had begun the previous day with a pleasant flight from Fukuoka. Upon landing at the bustling Incheon Airport, we were immediately struck by South Korea’s seamless integration of technology and efficiency. Purchasing a T-Money card from a convenience store ensured smooth travel on public transportation and even allowed purchases at various shops.
We hopped onto the AREX-Airport Express train, which was crowded but efficient, and arrived at Seoul Station. As we navigated the vast network of escalators and stairways, a kind-hearted local approached us, inquiring about our destination. To our surprise, he personally guided us through the maze, ensuring we boarded the correct train before continuing on our way. This unexpected act of kindness was our first taste of Korean hospitality—even before checking into our accommodation.
Later that evening, while exploring the vibrant streets of Myeongdong, we located Exit 9—the designated meeting point for our DMZ tour the next morning.
The DMZ Tour Begins
Our Guide Doria |
At precisely 7:30 AM, our guide, a friendly Korean woman named Daria, greeted us and ushered us onto the bus. As we made our way through the metropolis, the sight of towering skyscrapers, ancient palaces, and meticulously maintained gardens provided a striking contrast to the history of division we were about to witness.
Daria kept us engaged with artefacts and historical accounts of the Korean War, describing how families were separated—some never to reunite again. As we neared the DMZ, a routine security check by South Korean soldiers required every visitor’s passport to be inspected before entry. After about ninety minutes, our first stop awaited us.
Imjingak Park: A Site of Reflection
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The Freedom Bridge |
A particularly moving story tied to this place is that of Hyundai founder Chung Ju-Yung. As a young man, he had sold his father’s cow to escape to South Korea. In a symbolic gesture of gratitude and reconciliation, he returned to North Korea in 1998, crossing the DMZ with 1,001 cows as repayment for the one he had taken decades earlier.
Imjingak is also home to Dorasan Station, the northernmost railway station in South Korea. Though inactive, it stands as a symbol of hope for the possible reunification of the two Koreas. A quirky curio shop here sells North Korean stamps and currency notes, intriguing souvenirs for visitors.
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The Train |
Dora Observatory: A Window into North Korea
The two stations on either side of North and South Korea |
Our next stop was the Dora Observatory, perched atop Mount Dora. Along the way, another military checkpoint required another round of passport verification, reminding us of the strict security measures in place.
A peek into North Korea side |
The observatory offers a rare view into North Korea, overlooking Kaesong Industrial Complex, Kaesong city, and the Military Demarcation Line. Before stepping onto the observation deck, we watched a brief documentary about the Korean War and the DMZ’s history.
A farmer on N Korea side |
The N Korea flagpost |
The telescopes provided a glimpse of the towering North Korean flagpole, military outposts, and the Kaesong River—offering a surreal, firsthand view of a land so close yet worlds apart.
The Third Tunnel: A Covert Passage
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At the Third Infiltration Tunnel |
Perhaps the most thrilling part of the tour was exploring the Third Infiltration Tunnel, discovered in 1978. One of several tunnels dug by North Korea with the intent of a surprise attack, this passage measures 1.7 km in length and a mere 2 meters in width.
Equipped with hard hats, we ventured inside the dim, narrow tunnel. The steep climb back up was exhausting, but the experience of walking through history made every step worth it. Photography was strictly prohibited, preserving the secrecy and sensitivity of this extraordinary underground passage.
Unification Village: Life Within the DMZ
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A symbol of Ongoing Effort for Reunification |
Our final stop was Daeseong-dong (Unification Village), a small farming community that uniquely exists within the DMZ. Here, residents live under stringent monitoring, with specific rules governing their daily lives.
One of the most intriguing aspects of the village is its loudspeakers, which broadcast messages and music into North Korea—a practice met with reciprocal broadcasts from the North. This unusual form of communication added to the surreal atmosphere of the place.
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Flavouring the local Soya Bean icecream at the Unification village |
A local shop sold DMZ-themed souvenirs and snacks, offering visitors a taste of life near the border. We picked up Cheorwon Odae rice, known for its rich flavour, cultivated in the nutrient-rich basalt soil near the DMZ.
Reflections on a Historic Journey
As we made our way back to Seoul, passing through yet another military inspection, the weight of history lingered in our minds. The DMZ tour was an eye-opening experience, reminiscent of our visits to the Golan Heights in Israel and the Attari Border in India. It was a stark reminder of the human cost of division and the enduring hope for reunification.
Our journey to the DMZ was more than just a tour—it was a profound lesson in history, resilience, and the unbreakable spirit of a divided nation.
PS- All pics are mine